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DAVID-Laserscanner Forum • View topic - SLS setup
Dear DAVID Community,

In 2016, DAVID and this forum have been integrated into HP Inc.
This forum has been read-only since then, and will be switched off by then end of 2019.

To everyone who has contributed here, we thank you for all your work and for the constructive, helpful and friendly atmosphere you have created!
Please continue to discuss on the HP Support Forums.

SLS setup

SLS setup

Postby tomyuen007 » Fri Sep 28, 2012 8:34 pm

i am willing to buy the laser starter kit but i want to do the SLS also with laser starter kit but i have the following questions:

1. can i use my own projector? can LED projector ok to use?
2. can i use my own digital camera with WDM driver?
3. can i scan larger than 600mm if i can tolerate lower precision?


can anyone advise the above?
tomyuen007
 
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Re: SLS setup

Postby WalterMo » Sat Sep 29, 2012 6:54 am

You already have the hardware to do SL scans. What you need is the software (DAVID 3.4.0) and a calibration corner. And if you intend to scan objects bigger than 600 mm you cannot use the corner which is included in a starter kit. It's too small.
I would do the following:
Download the free DAVID 3.4.0 and check if your camera works with DAVID. I mean it's not necessary to scan something, only see if DAVID shows the camera images.

To your questions:
Yes you can use your LED projector. Maybe its brightness is not sufficient for bigger objects, but if your camera works and you build a bigger calibration corner you can check it with the free DAVID.

And yes, if you tolerate less resolution you can scan bigger objects, up to a real car. Latter with a powerful laser or a bulb projector.

If you also like to scan with a laser, so buy it separately.

If you need tips e.g. how to build the corner, please ask.
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Re: SLS setup

Postby tomyuen007 » Mon Oct 01, 2012 1:48 am

thank you for your reply.

the reason i ask because i have access to full size (6 feet or taller) cottatera arm. i can buy a real good ccd camera but i am not sure if the software is compatible with the driver. in windows, it is wdm driver and are u saying the demo is same as the pro version in terms of windows driver?

by the way, how do u cool down the ccd camera becasue when the ccd go hot, the image is deformed slight?

regarding projector, i have a big dlp projector, a big LED projector and a small dlp projector. are you saying the LED is not as bright as the dlp projector so i should use the dlp projector?


best regards
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Re: SLS setup

Postby WalterMo » Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:29 am

The free and the pro versions are the same regarding to do a scan. Differences: If you like to save a scan without the license it will be reduced to a resolution of 240 x 320 pixels. And something fused cannot be saved at all.

A 'hot' CCD camera will not deform an image, only the noise will increase. But this is only important for e.g. astronomers.

Every projector has its specs. So have a look at the stated number of lumens. Don't mix up LED and DLP. LEDs or bulbs are the light source. Latter is more powerful.
LCD or DLP are the kind of „making an image“ of the white light.
Start with a DLP LED projector. If it is too weak, take another with more lumens.
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Re: SLS setup

Postby VDX » Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:52 am

... by modifying and testing with three different DLP-beamers I've found, that depending on your camera sensitivity a common bulb is much to bright for small scan areas (around 300x200mm) and the adjusting range to lower luminance isn't enough, so I had to reduce the camera sensitivity to maybe 5-10% for best scans!

For such small areas you'll need a 'weaker' beamer or the possibility to reduce the light intensity in much higher (lower) ranges, than common.

Here with free adjustability of intensity could be interesting. Two of the DLP-beamers (an Infocus X2 and a Toshiba TDP-S20) I've already modified with bypassing the lamp - the third (Acer DP110 DLP) was only disassembled for removing shattered mirrors, and I'm SL-scanning with the original bulb ... but have plans to add a more capable intensity-controller for the bulb, or replace it by a fiber-lamp ...

Viktor
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Re: SLS setup

Postby WalterMo » Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:40 am

Hello Viktor,

I have never scanned with a powerful bulb projector, have just ordered one for 3D printing.
Do you think that reducing the brightness with the slider 'Projector Brightness' (at the top of the DAVID window) isn't sufficiently low for scanning?

Tomyuen007 mentioned to scan something bigger than 600 mm.

Walter

PS. A simple way to reduce the projector brightness could be to put a dark sunglasses in front of its lens.
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Re: SLS setup

Postby VDX » Mon Oct 01, 2012 10:16 am

Hi Walter,

I havent't tested all settings of David in depth, but 'darkening' the image per software could be sufficient.

My main reason for reducing the lamp intensity is to reduce the current, so the lamp will last much longer than the proposed 2000 hours :?

But with the normal bulb this is something tricky - you have to modify the sensing and high-voltage electronis, so the controller won't throw a lamp-error.

I have some single- and dual-rail light feeders from microscopy and some 'light-condensors', where a bundle of some thousand glass-fibers is fused and tapered, so the output area is 5-times smaller than the entry - so I can use common halogen-lamps as external source, feed them through the rail(s) and reduce the normal output-diameter of around 5mm to 1mm with the condensor.

Then it should be small enough to give sharp images with enough max. intensity for a common beamer ... or I can reduce the intensity of the external lamps down to zero if needed ...

Viktor
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Re: SLS setup

Postby VDX » Mon Oct 01, 2012 10:34 am

... I've tested the 'Projector Brightness' slider - it works, so next SL-scan will be without reducing the camera sensitivity :wink:

With replacing the bulb by a monochrome light-source (UV-laser or such) the normal colour-generating behaviour of the beamer is something that I have to understand or try to optimize for UV-3D-printing.

I think, with the colour-wheel the DMD-mirrors were oszillating even with a B/W-image, so they will only 'project' while the clear window is in front of the lamp ... they should be 'dark' (or out of the way) for the 3 other colour-windows, what's below 25% of the efficiency, possible with constant activation time and removed colour wheel :?

Someone any insight in this themes?

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