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MakerBot Replicator 2 - 3D Prints


Postby Lunat1c » Sat Sep 21, 2013 7:54 am

hal wrote:
Lunat1c wrote:4) Would 3d printed mechanical parts be strong enough to be used as replacements? Would they actually work?

No. my machine can print in PLA and ABS, that are not good to work as mechanical part under stress or high temperatures. From the pirnts you cna get casting and create in epexy resins or metal.


p.s.: about your last question... ShapeFusion can export OBJ, so u can import directly into printing software, of sure.

My intention is to replace molded plastic spare parts with the 3d printed ones, not metal parts. My father is running an auto spare parts aftermarket retail store. Sometimes he can't find the replacements for old car models. I want to help him. As far as I know, ABS is widely used in OEM parts. Do you think that the parts would still be lousy for a replacement for the molded plastics?
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Postby hal » Sat Sep 21, 2013 7:27 pm


I'm not a specialist, but the ABS material used fir a 3D print can't have the same properties of a plastic piece created with a die, molding process. Why the strenght of an ABS layer-printed pieces can't be same as a directly fused one? because the adhesion of each layer isn't strong as an ABS material that chage its state from liquid to solid.
Try to bend a small piece of ABS, made with a die casting process and one printed: the printed will be more more fragile (also if you print it as solid piece (not holed inside).
Seems that the tensile strength is 25% in the z direction and 50% in the others directions (RepRap source).
This is true for the macjine like Replicator 2 and similar. Obviously professional machines that works wiht resin powders or metal powders and cured by lasers... that's an other story. They are quite ready to be used not only as prototypes.

My suggestion is: create your prototype and then proceed for a metal or high performace plasticg cast, using the technique of the "lost wax", that in this cas we can also call "lost abs". create a rod of wax or low melting point plastic and attach to it your/s printed pieces. Then, with a vaccum chamber, creat ethe gypsum mold and inject the metal or other material (that fuse at higher temperatures then ur prints) into the gypsum mold. A cheaper way is to made all by hand and create a cast with gypsum, create the right holes for the melted materials and then use fused metal.

I don't suggest in any cases to sell as "ready to use" pieces printed with MDF machines. Their material properties and creation process can't guarantee the best performances under mecchanical stresses, frictions and working temperatures, if used directly.

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Re: MakerBot Replicator 2 - 3D Prints

Postby dangre » Wed Sep 25, 2013 9:13 pm

Another method is creating a resin mold of your 3D printed part and cast new parts in resin. Many automotive restorers use this process for out of production trim pieces. Resins will still not have the strength of an injection molded part due to the pressures used in injection molding (think forging vs. casting metals). Look at for examples (yes, I do work for the company :D ). Besides, you can cast a resin part in minutes vs. hours for 3D printing. We use 3D printed SLA's all the time and make molds and cast parts from that. 3D scanner + 3D printer + resin casting = awesome solution.
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Re: MakerBot Replicator 2 - 3D Prints

Postby hunkatibor2 » Sat Nov 02, 2013 8:52 am

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